We usually shy away from chefs that we can just as easily and even more affordably enjoy while in New York. But Jean-Georges Vongerichten is garnering rave reviews from fashionable legions making their way to his Market eatery on grassy strip of Matignon between the Champs-Elysées and Rue du Faubourg. The dining room is exquisite, whether just sneaking a peak from its maisonette facade or entering the striking space designed by Christian Liaigre. Think Armani Casa meets Bulgari Bali, a striking wood-paneled dining room of minimalist banquettes, open bread bar and antique carved masks on load from Christies Auction House around the corner. The L-shaped dining room is lined in raw stone floors that are strutted by a masculine staff straight out of a Dolce & Gabbana ad - attitude and all. While a same day reservation yielded perhaps the worst table in the restaurant, facing the bread bar and thoroughfare of guests en route to the better back dining room.
The Food
The meal begins with a decorative basket stuffed with some of the best homemade artesian bread of any Parisian restaurant. Accompanied by a well-selected and well-priced wine list, the staff seems ill equipped to assist in navigating the simplest of wine questions. My meal began with a arugula and fennel salad poorly balanced with a tart vinaigrette that gave the fennel a woodsy aftertaste. A second course selection of pizzas includes a tuna with cream of wasabi or Black truffle with fontina. There aren’t many ways to screw up the combination of cheese and black truffles, but the dense crust and heavily poured flakes had a bland taste typical of over exposure to light or air. Main courses include slow-baked salmon with fried onions, John Dory with baby artichokes and a roasted chicken over couscous that would probably be better at any corner brasserie in the area.
Last Word
A one-two combination of Christian Liaigre and Jean-Georges proves mostly style over substance with little foodie magic to be found at the NY chef’s premier Paris spin-off.
