Provoking the words 'shock and awe' from the lips of diners and locals accustomed to small and intimate eateries, Philadelphia restaurateur Stephen Starr (Morimoto)'s takes on NYC-foodies with a massive 16,000-foot restaurant-cum-nightclub in the Upper-Meatpacking District designed by Christian Liaigre (Mercer Hotel). Without a doorman, guests enter a welcoming reception hall with long steel-desk attended by polite staff and coat check. Entering the Grand Hall dining room is indeed like a grand event, a two-story walnut-paneled hall with chandeliers suspended from exposed rafters more befitting of a Cantonese ballroom than city eatery. Adjoining the dining room are the Lounge, outfitted with sleek-steel bar and giant tables for quick bite, and Golden Library with its gilt-walls and soaring bookshelves ideal for larger gatherings and private events (secret entrance off of 16th Street).
The Food
While seated within the expansive banquet hall, most guests are ill prepared to take food (or much of anything else) seriously. A well-selected menu offers Chinese- mainstays dressed up in inspiring dishes with artistic presentation. If ordering appetizers in one of the lounges, opt for the Crispy Taro Puff Lollipops or Shaken Chili Beef Tartare that are full of flavor without being too filling. Otherwise, the Cantonese spring rolls with fruity-ponzu sauce and steamed seafood buns are terrific starters for those with a little time on their hands. Standout entrees include Chiang Mai chicken sliced with ginger-infused yogurt, a tea-smoked chicken worthy of cult-status and sizzling Dungeness crabs in black bean sauce. Desserts include a whimsy Crying Chocolate, assorted sorbets and a dainty lime tart.
Last Word
An empire of alcoves and endless-corridors includes seating areas facing blank-but-pretty walls in far-flung areas of the 17,000-foot space - be aware of seating areas when making a reservation.
