Situated in SF's latest be-seen dining neighborhood, SOMA's China Basin, Twenty Five Lusk is located inside a thoroughly hip former-1917 meatpacking and smoke house. With the assistance of Cass Calder Smith, who designed the space, the building's period timber rafters and brick walls have been reconceived into a spectacular two-floor restaurant and lounge. The building's original charm survives on the outside much as it always has, except for the frosted glass panel and entryway the eludes to a more modern time. Inside, a first-floor lounge is arranged in symmetrical stone floors and 30-ft. ceiling of intersecting Douglas Fir beams among floating stainless-steel fireplaces striding an intimate lounge that's, perhaps, the prettiest in the city. Less crunchy design elements include a pristine white bar and snug loft-level dining room with built-in tables are a visually satisfying feast even before the first dish.
The Food
New American cuisine with a distinctive French tone is presided over by chef Matthew Dolan who conducts a flavor symphony of seafood bouillabaisse with Dungeness crab, rabbit terrine with toasted brioche and foie gras tourchon with blueberry-peanut sauce. Main course follows a rigid principle of farm-to-table ingredients for roasted prochetta with aged provolone, Oregon steelhead with lobster beignet and vegetarian crepe stuffed with fromage blanc and wild tomato ragout. A great new Sunday brunch menu includes duck confit scramble, lobster benedict on English muffin and opera burger with fried egg.
Last Word
Former 1917 smokehouse finds hip new existence as foodie hotspot with sexy lounge in SF's China Basin.
