In a city not known for its hushed dining scenes, Playa del Carmen is home to Cocina 38 hidden behind a stylish facade of simple glass along ever-lively 5th Avenue. Simple white walls are strewn with tribal masks and native artwork with two rows of white-clothed tabletop and sturdy chairs albeit with not-so-comfy rattan cushions. Surrounded in a sidewalk terrace of textured stone tiling, a stone-encrusted exterior eludes to a glassy main dining room and open-style kitchen that's currently one of the best gourmet offerings in the downtown area.
The Food
Lead-chef Juan Diego previously worked at London’s Savoy, Claridge’s and Allium while his co-owner and pastry chef comes via Swiss-training and stint at London’s old Pharmacy. Together the two create a deliberate menu that begins with scallop tartar with mango wedges, chilled pea soup with cream cheese drizzle and soft shell crab tempura with spiced-soy glaze. Main course is half from land and half from sea with black cod in a cauliflower puree, calamari and chorizo risotto topped with grilled shrimp and braised beef cheek with onion cream and truffle oil. Try to save room for dessert that includes a fig tartan with port reduction, caramelized apple and prune puree and classic cheesecake topped with peaches and blackberries.
Last Word
While lacking the white glove service of many area hotels, the cuisine is by far one of the best in the area with in-the-known locals and visiting tourists.
