In fashion scenes as dramatic as some of the exhibits themselves, art
glitterati descend on Italy this week for the 57th installment of the Venice Biennale
(May 13-November 26). Kicking-off with a very showy 3-day vernissage,
the merriment begins on May 10th with a series of invite-only parties
and cocktail previews in glamorous palazzos and little-known rectories
by international gallerists, artists, collectors and curators that
consider the biyearly art fair the greatest event in contemporary art.
Getting into the parties is far easier than scoring a room in Venice
over these days, as Aman Venice stands the starriest address and both the Gritti Palace and Bauer Hotel properties prove the places to stay for everyone else.
Navigating the Venice Biennale
is no easy task for first-timers, but leaning heavily on the young
pavilion staffers is one tactic. Another is dividing your time between
the Giardini and the Arsenale. Start with the latter, and where this
year's Creative Director and Centre Pompidou curator Christine Macel
presents “Viva Arte Viva,” - a 120-artist exhibition. Next are the
national pavilions spread-out from the Giardini's historic pavilions and
along the Arsenale where you’ll find the U.S. pavilion represented by
painter Mark Bradford who is showcasing work surrounding Venetian prison
inmates. Outside of the Giardini and the Arsenale, several satellite
fairs are making headlines this year including Damien Hirst. Staging
somewhat of a comeback at Pinault Foundation, Hirst debuts his Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable
that tells the story of monumental shipwreck with its vast emotional
and material treasures that could be his best work to date.
During the busier weeks of the Venice Biennale,
many bad meals will be consumed by international, even-famous, visitors
due to lack of planning or simply winging it. If in doubt, always opt
for Harry's Bar or a hotel dining room, and in Venice the best would be Met at the old school Hotel Metropole and more-posh Met at the Gritti Palace. For those that plan in advance, il Ridotto offers a uniquely modern setting for classic Venetian dishes while Al Covo lures with its rustic charm and Osteria Ai Promessi Sposi is there when you need to get away from all the tourists. Afterwards, hit the Bauer Hotel's B-Bar that was home to the LouLou's pop-up last Biennale and still lures the hippest nightlife crowd, or Palazzina G
with its haunting location and Starck-interiors. Otherwise, you can
always get lost with the locals around Campo Santa Margherita where you
might meet those who have never even heard of the Biennale.
