Visitors arrive to a sleek valet area off of bustling La Cienega Boulevard, located a Bloomingdale's bag throw from LA's Beverly Center. A small staircase and exceptionally decorated terrace of canopied chairs and potted topiaries leads to a sublime lobby entrance where a booth of jovial hostesses inquires of name and reservation. Deconstructed social areas are arranged in bold groupings with warm homey tones interrupted by silver-plated Chippendale chairs and bold leather-tufted furnishings. Bazaar isn't just a restaurant, but a cluster of public spaces that includes Bar Centro, a hip and dark bar of mirrored shoulder-height seating and tables located adjacent to the Patisserie with its long bar of glass-domed sugary sweets and delicacies. The space marries Starck's love of minimalism with a textured new decadence that that is equal parts Alice in Wonderland and Pan's Labyrinth. Large white sofas and cluby chairs are arranged in circles conducive to conversation that extend throughout the lobby as well as into the in-house Moss accessories boutique.
The Food
The main dining room of Bazaar is known as Rojo y’ Blanca, divided between two rooms draped in velvet pewter-colored fabric dividing them from the lobby. A glossy accordion-style menu arrives divided between traditional and more modern tapas. Around us diners ‘ohh and ahh’ at the space as a caviar cart passed followed by a cotton candy trolley that serves it’s pink sticked-treats with a foie gras surprise. Like a culinary circus with a James Beard Award-winning ringleader, Jose Andre brings tapas-style dining to the gourmet level. Our meal begins with a selection of a olive-oil toasted bread with candied jelly and manchego followed by a jicama-wrapped guacamole shot on a bed of corn nuts. More decadent plates include a seared tuna rolled in sesame seeds, squid fried in a light tempura batter and Espinacas a la Catalana that is essentially a circle of spinach topped with apple, pine nuts and raisins. Main course is a medley of larger plate dishes like a sautéed shrimp served butterflied with garlic and guindilla pepper, fried pasta paella with monkfish and shrimp and more adventurous lamb loin served with raisins and sherry.
Last Word
Spanish-born DC chef Jose Andres makes his Hollywood debut at Philippe Starck-designed eatery within SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills.
