It is and has been the culinary capital of modern America cuisine, French Laundry is located in a period 1890 French Steam Laundry that was a coveted landmark even before chef Thomas Keller landed the prestigious space as his own flagship kitchen. The period two-story stone house looks every bit the gastronomic landmark many anticipate when accepting a less-than-prime 9pm dinner reservation or 11am lunch. The intimate dining room was partly designed by Keller himself home to just 15 tables at which guests sit on average 3-4 hours for one of the two elaborate prix fixe tasting menus. Outside, the restaurant is surrounded by an English-style garden planted with vintage roses, perennials and seasonal herbs and vegetables used in the restaurant. Our only grievance? The crowd can be a bit pedestrian at times, a few too many people who come for the famous name and vocalize their apprehension to dishes like foie gras and rabbit too loudly.
The Food
Describing a meal at French Laundry is a bit like vocalizing the a front row at a Pavarotti-starred opera or view form the top of the Empire State Building. Simple perfection comes with distractions like annoying table neighbors or sometimes assembly-line presentation of food that feels a bit cold or too formal. Dinner is biblical culinary story of dishes like foie gras torchoun served with black tea gelee worthy of its $30 supplement, sautéed sea bass with black truffle and dover sole Veronique with brioche croutons. Vegetarians should not fear as a tasting menu of their own includes volute of English peas, Spanish tortilla filled with onions and potato confit and king mushrooms ala bordelaise with green garlic tortellini.
Last Word
Jackets are required. There’s also no hard liquor at French Laundry, so martini-drinkers beware.
