In an upscale section of Rio's Leblon, fashionphiles and one-name celebs make their way to this Brazilian institution that is equal parts tourist trap and foodie icon. A faded-yellow awning conceals an impromptu smoking patio and sidewalk of awaiting valets and occasional paparazzo. Inside, a mix of gilded and velvet Euro antiques from the '60s gives the feel of grandma's attic amongst a front cocktail lounge with red banquettes and lacquer-top tables. Further inside, a series of small dining rooms are concealed within small drawing rooms lined in tumbles stone and painted-white brick with low ceilings and Hermes orange-painted trim.
The Food
A Brazilian-infused Portuguese menu begins with specialties like garlic escargot, raw bar of shellfish appetizers and homemade pate. Seafood soups like cataplana or gazpacho are on the heavy side with ample cream, as salads offer a lighter alternative topped with shrimp or cheese. Main course is a mix of seafood specialties like white fish bacalhau and grilled meats with pasta course of fettuccine alfredo and seafood spaghetti usually reserved as an appetizer supplement.
Last Word
Old-school dining institution in Rio's Leblon attracts political dining set, Hollywood actress and be-seen tourists indulging in 2000-calorie home-cooked feasts.
