Located off the two-story lobby of the W Hotel Hollywood, Delphine is the latest destination eatery from LA-based Innovative Dining Group (owners of Sushi Roku and Boa). Taking a much needed siesta from its usual Dodd Mitchell supper club palaces, Delphine aims to be a Provencal French brasserie cast from the black-and-white pictures of '20s Cannes that line its interior dining room of white wicker chairs and painted-tile floors that are one of the best details of the restaurant – even usurping our meal. Walls are built-in cabinetry that tries to be charming but really just feels like a set, with long raw bar we envision one day serving sushi in the not-too-distant future. Outside, a large terrace with oversize projection screen and overflow dining room without overflow diners.
A really well-priced French menu has all the making of a great LA eatery. A selection of raw bar appetizers includes a small and grand plateau as well as shrimp cocktail and hand shucked oysters. Appetizer tuna 3-way is a good two out of three, one of which looks like it was upended from a tin. Mixed salad is good, Caesar salad is almost great. Swordfish was a tad over-cooked, on braised bok choy with a savory white sauce. Steak Poivre was left on the flame 5-minutes to long, with under-crispy French fires but adequate peppercorn sauce for dipping. The dessert menu included some great selections of assorted chocolate biscuits as well as profiteroles and apple hazelnut crostada served in a water glass that looked like something stolen from the tray of an American Airlines dinner.
The crowd on the night of our visit was a mix of Forever XXI and Jersey Shore looking to drink more than eat. The staff is a pretty-to-look-at painful-to-listen-to collection of actress/models types that flunk French vernaculars but are a lot of fun once everyone accepts this isn't going to be Pastis LA.